Welcome to the Enchanting Byron Bay
Prepare to be captivated by the magic of Byron Bay, nestled along Australia's picturesque east coast. A visit to this coastal haven often results in life-altering experiences. But what is it that sets this small seaside community apart from the rest? Let resident David Leser shed some light.
Embark on a journey to a hidden gem nestled beneath a majestic lighthouse, where the meeting of rainforest and ocean creates an ethereal ambiance. Here, turquoise waters play host to joyful dolphins gracefully dancing, while magnificent whales breach and exhale in the bay's embrace. Byron Bay is a melting pot of diverse souls, attracting surfers, hippies, musicians, writers, farmers, teachers, artists, film-makers, fishermen, and even stockbrokers. This spirited community embodies the essence of a great modern-day experiment in living.
Indulge in the calm and tranquil atmosphere that envelops Byron Bay, where a myriad of unique experiences awaits. Lounge on pristine beaches, immerse yourself in the local arts scene, or embark on exhilarating surf adventures. For the adventurous souls, embark on an unforgettable journey through the enchanting rainforest, teeming with lush flora and fauna. Whether you seek spiritual awakening or simply a pause from the bustling world, Byron Bay offers a sanctuary unlike any other.
Experience the transformative allure of Byron Bay, where extraordinary wonders await.
Who'd believe such a story? A New Jerusalem on the most easterly point of Australia with the perfect wave, the perfect climate, the perfect soil; with sunkissed, friendly people; with a Green mayor and a politically conscious community; with fine dining, smart cafés and bookshops; with music, arts and literary festivals, with a goulash of massage and alternative health therapies so diverse you could spend an entire month floating from one to the other.
It is also a sacred Aboriginal meeting place. A woman's place. A healing place. A place where the counter-culture rubs up against the city. A place where Australia first meets the sun and the streets are named after poets and the plumber takes his shoes off at the door.
So, yes, I never wanted to rhapsodise in print this way because, as I say, I never thought anyone would believe me; but secondly, and much more importantly, I never wanted to contribute to the potential ruination of a place I love. Especially as I happen to live here. So what changed? Well, for one thing, the secret has been out about Byron Bay for some time now. In 2006 an estimated 1.6 million visitors came to this little town of 9,000 people on the coast of northern New South Wales, reaffirming its growing place as one of the most desirable destinations in Australia outside 'the House, the Rock and the Reef' (Sydney Opera House, Uluru and the Great Barrier Reef.)
The musical spiritualism of Byron Bay, Australia
I have a number of theories as to why this is, and sex and magic are high on that list. Let me take the latter first. In Byron Bay, magic still seems possible. People fall in love here. People get well here. People come to give birth here. People come to die here. Truly. People swim with dolphins and commune with nature here. People organise Uncle Projects for fatherless boys and hold Fatherhood Festivals here. People have parties and ceremonies: rainforest dances, Aquarius Balls, Kundalini Shakedowns, Path of Love retreats, Lascivious Evenings and salsa and samba nights the likes of which I have never seen before (although it's true, I've not yet been to Brazil).
And there is music here unlike any place ever I've known, and I don't just mean the roar and crash of the Pacific, or the eternal melody of birdsong. There is a musician living on every hill, live music seven nights a week and festivals, such as the annual East Coast Blues & Roots Music Festival, and Splendour in the Grass, bringing to the region some of the world's greatest artists. In the last few years I have seen James Brown, Jackson Browne, Jack Johnson, Sarah McLachlan, Michael Franti, Ben Harper, Emmylou Harris, Bo Diddley, Taj Mahal, Joan Armatrading, Coldplay, David Gray, Bob Geldof, Gomez and Moby all perform here, among others. (Moby was said to have gone skinny dipping at The Byron at Byron Resort, and the joke around town for the next two weeks was 'Has anyone seen Moby's dick?' There were no confirmed sightings.)
So there are songlines (the dreaming, journeying trails of the Aborigines, something like ley lines) here, which is unsurprising considering this is also Bundjalung country, Aboriginal land dating back 40,000 years. There are sacred sites integral to the Aboriginal people's creation myths, among them the mighty Wollumbin, or 'Cloud-Catcher', the mountain that looms out of the Nightcap Ranges on the border between Queensland and New South Wales. Given the name Mount Warning by Captain James Cook in 1770, this towering peak is the plug in the middle of what was once the largest shield volcano in the world, the oldest link to the original supercontinent known as Gondwanaland. Although Wollumbin has not been active for more than 20 million years, the evidence of its former fury and bounty is everywhere.
Unveiling the Untamed Past of Byron Bay, Australia
Discover a captivating saga hidden within the vibrant landscapes of Byron Bay, Australia. As you embark on a mesmerizing drive through the lush emerald hinterland, ultimately leading you to the glistening aquamarine coast, you traverse the remnants of an ancient rainforest known as the Big Scrub. Once an awe-inspiring wilderness abounding with majestic sassafras, sandalwood, myrtles, and thousand-year-old cedar trees, it now echoes the stories of a bygone era.
Delve into the intriguing history of the Byron region, where a ruthless timber industry thrived, shaped by ambitious merchants and mill owners. Former convicts and emancipists were enlisted as cedar cutters, granted the arduous task of clearing these once-majestic forests to cater to the British and American demand.
Immerse yourself in the echoes of the past as you explore the fascinating connections between Byron Bay's early industries and its present-day allure.
It was the first act of slaughter in Byron. Many others were to follow, not least the massacre of Aboriginal communities in the mid 19th century. One group of 100 was shot and pushed off a cliff near here; another group had their damper (soda bread made in the outback) poisoned with arsenic. To understand how the Byron region became the centre of the countercultural movement in Australia, a place of deep healing for people the world over, it is important to understand this murderous history. Aboriginal communities were destroyed, forests plundered, and the denuded land cleared and turned over to grazing. Byron Bay became a hard-boiled little town of farmers, meatworkers and then sand miners, and, by the middle of the 20th century, the site of the main whaling station in Australia. But ever since the early 1970s, a major reconciliation process has been underway, with both the land and its original inhabitants. This is key to the Byron story and it is best understood through the Aquarius Festival of 1973, an arts and music festival that turned this region into the Woodstock of the South.
The discovery of Byron Bay, Australia, in the 1970s
Californian surfers had discovered Byron Bay in the late 1960s, but it was the hippies and the alternative lifestylers of the 1970s who discovered the lush, rolling hills above the bay. Alienated by the values of materialism, appalled by the wanton destruction of the rainforests, and spurred on by the American protest movement of the 1960s, thousands of young Australians descended on the coast of northern New South Wales to smoke dope and to chart new ways of living and loving. (In the nearby town of Nimbin, where the Aquarius Festival was held, there is still an annual 'Mardi Grass' with bong-throwing and joint-rolling competitions, and a 'cannabis cup' for the winner.)
From these rebellious beginnings came the anti-logging movement, the permaculture movement, the demand for 'intentional communities' or communes, for eco villages, farmers' markets, wildlife corridors, worm-farm waste systems and all the back-to-nature simplicity trends that would inspire late 20th-century Green politics and the urgent clamour of today for action on climate change. 'I think Byron Bay is an example to the world,' Australia's first popularly elected Green mayor, Jan Barham, told me over dinner. 'We are surrounded by protected areas. To the east a marine park, to the north and south nature reserves, and on our western boundaries, national parks. This is a bountiful bubble of nature here and it seems to grab people's senses.'
Opinions on Environmentalism in Byron Bay, Australia
The environmental agenda championed by Jan Barham during her term as mayor of Byron Bay garnered widespread enthusiasm among locals. However, the current state of the town center and her opposition to development have sparked concerns and criticism. Some residents, like local estate agent Chris Hanley, feel that the council led by Barham is one of the worst in history, lacking in the ability to govern for the entire community and failing to recognize the potential benefits of certain business ventures.
Despite the differing viewpoints, it is worth noting that Chris Hanley, in addition to being a real estate agent, also holds the title of president and co-founder of the Byron Bay Writers Festival. Hanley's extensive knowledge and literary prowess make him a unique voice in the community, equally comfortable discussing the works of Balzac as he is navigating the snapper reefs as an avid fisherman. Hanley's critique of the council primarily revolves around their shortcomings on matters of basic infrastructure, which he believes they have failed to address.
Opinions on the issue of tourism in Byron Bay, Australia are varied. Local businessman Ed Ahern, who heads the community group Byron United, believes that implementing bike tracks, improving parks, and creating a bypass will attract more visitors to the area. He suggests that the Green party opposes these initiatives, as they are not inclined towards tourism.
However, Barham, in response, strives to emphasize that she is dedicated to achieving sustainable goals in Byron Bay. She acknowledges the challenges of being misunderstood but is determined to prevent excessive development and environmental harm.
It is worth noting that Ed Ahern's viewpoint highlights the potential benefits of increased tourism, such as economic growth and improved urban amenities. On the other hand, Barham stresses the importance of maintaining a delicate balance between attracting visitors and preserving the natural beauty and character of Byron Bay.
Discover the Charm and Allure of Byron Bay, Australia
During the 1980s, Byron Bay experienced a cultural shift when it captivated renowned filmmakers and writers attracted by its subtle tropical ambiance. Influenced by the successes of the iconic film Crocodile Dundee, the actor and writer Paul Hogan, along with writer and producer John Cornell, were compelled to not only visit but also make this idyllic area their permanent home. Cornell, in particular, made substantial investments in the region, further enhancing its allure.
Since then, Byron Bay and its surrounding hinterland have beckoned thousands of individuals searching for alternative lifestyles that do not necessarily sever their ties with urban living. Contrary to its former reputation as solely a haven for hippies, the town now boasts an array of upscale resorts, spas, restaurants, cafés, bars, and pubs, making it a magnet for discerning travelers from all walks of life.
For a truly unforgettable experience, indulge in the exclusive resorts and spas scattered throughout the region, allowing you to relax and rejuvenate amidst breathtaking natural beauty. Savor the culinary delights offered by the town's numerous restaurants, offering everything from local delicacies to international cuisine. With its diverse community, Byron Bay ensures that every visitor feels welcome and finds their own slice of paradise.
'This is the first successful urban culture outside of our main cities,' writer and long-time resident Craig McGregor tells me at Succulent Café, our favoured Moroccan-style breakfast haunt. 'It may even be our first deconstructed mini-city, with its own satellite townships up and down the coast and in the hinterland, all of them revolving around the glitzy centre which Byron has become.'
Perhaps this is why so many of the country's - and the world's - rich and famous choose to holiday here. 'This is the pinnacle, here,' says Vincent Rae, the owner of the romantic and ultra-exclusive Rae's on Watego's, over a meal of fresh grilled snapper, salad and chilled Western Australian Pierro Chardonnay. 'It's Champagne surfing. There are dolphins in the water and the water is crystal clear. I get Americans and English staying here and they're just totally blown away.'
Among the apparently blown-away are Tom Cruise, Russell Crowe, Nicole Kidman, Billy Zane, Kate Winslet, Kate Hudson, Gwyneth Paltrow and Chris Martin, Robert Plant and Keith Richards. 'We don't really push the celebrity thing,' Vincent adds. 'It tends to take care of itself. They just keep coming back.'
The Allure of Byron Bay: A Paradise for Surfing Enthusiasts and Romance Seekers
Discover the captivating charm of Byron Bay, an Australian gem that effortlessly combines enticing waves and romantic escapades. Renowned supermodel, Elle Macpherson, recently indulged in a rejuvenating retreat at Rae's, a luxurious haven offering holistic experiences such as pampering sessions, invigorating yoga classes, and expert surfing lessons by none other than Rusty Miller - the legendary 1964 US surfing champion.
At Byron Bay, you'll encounter a colorful tapestry of individuals, including the charismatic Rusty, who delights in sharing his expertise with an eclectic mix of visitors - from English merchant bankers to adventurous Hong Kong hedge funders and glamorous international supermodels. They all come together to conquer the glassy swell, guided by Rusty's infectious passion for surfing.
Immerse yourself in Byron Bay's vibrant surf culture, where every wave tells a unique story and the ocean becomes a playground for enthusiasts seeking a thrilling and unforgettable experience. Whether you're chasing the perfect wave or looking to kindle romance against a picturesque backdrop, Byron Bay promises an idyllic escape.
With its gentle, consistent waves and stunning scenery, Watego's Beach in Byron Bay is hailed as one of the premier destinations for learning to surf. The allure of this picturesque spot lies not only in its inviting breaks, but also in the transformative experience it offers. When your body, mind, and soul immerse in the water here, your life will never be the same.
But Byron Bay has much more to offer than just incredible surf. Imagine soaring above the Cape on a hang-glider, taking in the breathtaking views of Australia's easternmost point. Picture yourself kayaking alongside playful dolphins, their sleek bodies dancing in the crystal-clear waters. As you listen to the rhythmic sigh of the breakers and witness the majestic whales embarking on their annual migration, you'll feel a profound connection to the natural world.
'Love and desire have always been intertwined with the sea', wrote John Cheever, capturing the universal allure of coastal destinations. Byron Bay, however, stands out as a place where passionate escapades have left an indelible mark. Julian Rocks, the striking granite formations emerging from the sea, hold the whispers of Aboriginal lovers who eloped against all odds.
According to Eric White, a local historian whose words still echo in the air, Byron Bay was a hotspot for clandestine encounters from the 1900s onwards. The Cape became a haven for couples who would board trains and retreat to the grassy hills. Armed with a blanket and a pocket knife, they would carve out a little space, hidden from the world, to embrace their passion.
But romance in Byron Bay wasn't limited to secretive rendezvous. Moonlit picnics on the hillside were part of the magic. Eric White himself, married to the daughter of a lighthouse keeper, delighted in taking his wife to these ethereal settings, where the shimmering moonlight set the stage for unforgettable moments.
Byron Bay's allure lies not just in its captivating scenery, but in the stories it holds. Tales of love, desire, and the untamed spirit thrive amidst the crashing waves and rugged landscapes, making it a destination for seekers of extraordinary experiences.
Where to stay, eat and explore around Byron Bay, Australia
WHERE TO STAY
The Byron at Byron Resort & Spa
Beautifully decorated suites are set in 45 acres of rainforest of white cedar, Bangalow palm, plum myrtle and paperbark; guests awake to the mating call of the whipbird and the derisive laugh of the kookaburra. It's a five-star luxury resort with a 25-metre pool, spa, yoga and wellness centre, dining room and bar in the rainforest. It was blessed by a Buddhist monk, an Aboriginal elder and an Anglican minister. This is my favourite place, and Barry Humphries', too. Suites from A$360 (about £175)
While the tranquility of the rainforest might be just what you're looking for, some travelers may prefer the bustling city vibe. For those interested in staying closer to urban activities and landmarks, finding hotel deals in Sydney can provide an array of options to suit your preferences.
77-97 Broken Head Road, Suffolk Park (00 61 2 6639 2000;www.thebyronatbyron.com.au).
The Oasis of Rae's on Watego's
Rae's on Watego's serves as a sanctuary of boho opulence. It has become a popular retreat for celebrities seeking a serene environment. The suites, with interiors infused with Indonesian and Moroccan aesthetics, offer an unrivaled view of the beach. Moreover, guests can indulge in an extravagant spa featuring walls bedecked with luminescent Italian nacre. A suite's nightly rate starts at approximately £295.
Located on Watego's Beach, for inquiries and reservations, contact: (00 61 2 66 855 366;www.raes.com.au).
Notably, Byron Bay is known for its surf culture and it's natural beauty, providing a fitting backdrop to the luxury of Rae's on Watego's. The town also boasts a vibrant arts scene, enhancing its appeal as a travel destination.
And if you're on the hunt for a diverse selection of accommodations, tophotels.com offers a comprehensive list of luxury hotels throughout Australia. Whether you're seeking an opulent suite or a cozy room with a view, you'll find ample choices to make your stay memorable.
The Mirage of Gaia Retreat & Spa
Olivia Newton-John, one of the founding members, defines the essence of Gaia as a place 'where simplicity intertwines with luxury'. Nestled within the scenic mountainscape above Byron Bay, this retreat is an epitome of charm. Revel in the airy, magnificently laid-out bungalows, savor the organic meals, and delve into a plethora of activities such as yoga, meditation, tennis, pilates, and t'ai chi. Gaia boasts a warm, saline swimming pool, and the onsite Amala Day Spa offers an enticing selection of services ranging from craniosacral balancing and sonic therapy, to detoxifying body wraps. A double accommodation package for three nights starts from approximately £680 per individual, inclusive of spa privileges, treatments, and full-board meals.
To find them, head to 933 Fernleigh Road, Brooklet or dial (00 61 2 6687 1216). Explore more at www.gaiaretreat.com.au.
WHAT TO DO
Walk through the rainforest to Australia's easternmost point, then swim at Watego's, The Pass or Main Beach.
Yoga with Kaz Toupin (www.byronbubble.com).
Dolphin kayaking with Go Sea Kayak (www.byronbayseakayak.com.au); guide Delta Kay can accompany you and point out places of Aboriginal significance.
Dolphin-spotting on Watego's you can see them resting with their calves.
Private surfing lesson with Rusty Miller (www.byron-bay-guide.com.au).
Snorkelling off Julian Rocks (www.byronbaydivecentre.com.au), where there are turtles and more than 400 species of fish.
Hang-gliding over Cape Byron (www.totaltravel.com.au).
Markets selling organic produce and crafts held on the first Sunday of every month in Butler Street, Byron Bay, and every fourth Sunday of the month in Bangalow.
Drive to Mullumbimby, Minyon Falls, Brunswick Heads or Bangalow.
WHERE TO EAT: BREAKFAST
Succulent Café, 8 Byron Street (00 61 2 6680 7121).
Byron Beach Café, Clarkes Beach, Lawson Street (00 61 2 6685 8400; www.byronbeachcafe.com).
The Balcony Bar & Restaurant, Lawson/ Jonson Streets (00 61 2 6680 9666; www.balcony.com.au).
Offshore Bistro + Bar, 42 Lawson Street (00 61 2 6685 5355; www.offshorebistro.com.au).
WHERE TO EAT: DINNER
Olivo, 34 Jonson Street (00 61 2 6685 7950). Mod Oz food that veers towards French.Dinner about £40 for two without wine.
Dish, Jonson/Marvel Streets (00 61 2 6685 7320). Has a fabulous raw bar and hearty Mod Oz dishes. About £45 for two without wine.
Orient Express Eatery, 1-2 Fletcher Street (00 61 2 6680 8808). Best Asian food between Sydney and Brisbane. Try the Fisherman's Catch: mussels, squid, prawns and fish, wok-steamed with chilli jam and coconut sauce. About £40 for two without wine.
HOLISTIC WELLNESS
Byron Bay, affectionately known as the 'hub of rejuvenation' in Australia, offers an array of therapeutic experiences. These range from tantric body treatments and psychic readings to diverse massage practices. The preferred choices are an intense tissue-massage at Quintessence (www.quintessencebyron.com.au) or a self-care session at Buddha Gardens Day Spa.
Incorporating new facts, it's important to note that the tantric bodywork helps in energy balancing and can lead to improved health. Also, Buddha Gardens Day Spa is nestled within a beautiful Balinese garden which makes the experience even more relaxing.
TRAVELLING TO BYRON BAY
Qantas airline conducts a flight service from Heathrow to Brisbane via Singapore starting at £1,127 for a round trip. The exciting city of Brisbane is merely a two-hour drive from the serene Byron Bay.
Alternatively, Virgin Atlantic (08705 747747; www.virgin-atlantic.com) also provides flights from Heathrow to Sydney, with fares beginning from £812 return.
Virgin Blue additionally offers a flying service from Sydney to Ballina, a nearby location to Byron Bay, with prices starting from £85.